Where to begin? For those trepidatious about the note, begin with fragrances where rose assumes a jointly complementary role. Fragrances inspired by Middle Eastern style accords are a good place to start. In Histoires de Parfums Rosam, 'rosam' being the latin singular for rose, the rose-oud combination becomes a trio with the addition of saffron, with its shiny and almost honey-like intensity, then washed in incense. Rosam employs Arabian Taif rose, known for its spiciness, complexity, and slightly tannic astringency. Altogether, it's like a rose coated in glossy shellac.
For rose realism, Etat Libre d'Orange's Eau de Protection pays homage to the full picture of rose: earthy stems and leaves included, as if pricking your thumb on a thorn, moving rose into the dark territory of black pepper, ginger, patchouli and cumin. This is a symphony through multiplicity. Situate this rose in an English garden and you have No. 88 Cologne by Czech and Speake, which features expanse and concentration all at once. Its burst of bergamot and cooling geranium freshness rapidly frames a rose that is full-bodied and robust, well-mannered and striking, as if its velvety red petals were at a point before the darkest black. There is shade in this garden, provided by the umbrous and slightly smoky touch of vetiver and sandalwood. Rose de Jamal by Les Indemodables is an overdose of exceptional quality Moroccan rose absolute. At 5.5% dosage, each bottle contains the equivalent of half a kilogram of rose petals. The fragrance is luscious and bursting with pink pepper, mint, cedar, and lavender - producing a textured fragrance with weight and nuance. A rare treat.
For a guilty treat, Tauer is the rose maestro. Incense Rose (Tauer) hypercharges rose and plays a game of contrasts, as reviving cardamon and clementine are grounded with the dark gothic notes of incense, patchouli, and castoreum. There is nothing as lively or as characterful as this. Incense Rose is not only an exalted rose, but exalted happiness. PHI Une Rose de Kandahar (Tauer) employs an exclusive rose from Nangarhar, and demonstrates Andy Tauer’s generous mantra – quality ingredients lend themselves to generosity. PHI is a blushing rose of discreet and distinguished powdery elegance, met with a cool gust of tobacco, apricot, and pale almond, then combined with a beautifully refined note of amber and mature vanilla.
