Bogue Profumo MAAI Extrait de Parfum

Name: Bogue Profumo MAAI Extrait de Parfum
Rating: 4.00 (5 reviews)

$460⁰⁰ NZD

Size

50ml 1ml Sample

Maai is a stunning accomplishment, marrying the very best of sophisticated old-school chypre glamour and bold animalics with a refined elegance and smoothness. It opens with an incredible burst of verdant moss, fused with roses, jasmine, and green tuberose, sprinkled with a transparent veil of golden, glittering aldehydes. The plush bouquet is mesmerising in its depth, and harkens back to a time before IFRA/EU regulations – it is truly heart-stopping when combined with animalic elements. Musky, leathered, and skanky, they cast a mighty roar that transforms the delicate swirl of florals into something with a bolder, more unisex touch. As Maai unfolds, balsamic resins awaken in the base to add subtle streaks of smokiness and honeyed sweetness. The amber note slowly turns the whole fragrance deeper, richer, and softer, coating the musky leather in its warmth, taming its cry. In its drydown, Maai transforms into golden velvet with a smooth, plush mix of amber, musk, and oakmoss.

Tuberose, rose, aldehydes, and civet — opulent, animalic, and classically devastating.

Notes

Civet Aldehydes Resin Musk Jasmine Tuberose Rose

Wear profile

Longevity

Intensity

Best for Evening

Season Autumn · Winter

Details

Family	Floral
Country	Italy
Perfumer	Antonio Gardoni
Year	2014
Concentration	Extrait de Parfum

Description

Fragrance Family:
(Soft) Floral

Notes:
Tuberose, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Aldehydes, Civet, Castoreum, Hyraceum, Dried Fruits, Sandalwood, Labdanum, Oakmoss.

Concentration:
Extrait de Parfum

Occasion:
Black-tie galas seem like a perfect occasion for this incredibly opulent, concentrated scent, but so are moments when you want to attract with an overt sensuality and lively passion.

Made in Italy

Editor's Notes

Maai belongs to a grand tradition of high perfumery, rich and long with opulent natural materials harmonised spectacularly. Dissecting the work is no easy task - which is a testament to the meticulous blending of perfumer Antonio Gardoni. Here he has crafted a total composition, identifiable as both a composite of parts and a singular unified whole. Its sophistication is due to many features, most notably its ability to contain such bigness within a chypre frame, allowing powerful and exuberant floral notes to radiate gloriously. Indeed, Maai embraces this with a forcefield made of textured leathery flowers and animalic ones, moving with a gorgeous frenetic intensity intensified by the shine of aldehydes. It is gold wrapped up in thick smoke and sylvan mist, retaining its luminous veil. Filling every space are unctuous lashings of fatty aldehydes and bitter oakmoss; any shadows that remain metamorphose to become a dry growl made of leather, animal, and resin. The many tonal accentuations in Maai create a floral chypre that feels like a potent balm of pure floral scent - the sharp green of tuberose both dives and takes flight, working amongst a curvaceous body of jasmine and rose, tweaked with the saturating touch of ylang-ylang. Layer upon layer, to wear Maai is to experience its many shifts and rearrangements - it is unquestionably symphonic, and reaches a magnitude that is nowadays a rare achievement in modern perfumery.

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5 stars: 3 (60%)
4 stars: 1 (20%)
3 stars: 0 (0%)
2 stars: 0 (0%)
1 star: 1 (20%)

Just a burnt caramel smell - nothing floral or complex at all.

I purchased two samples of this and it's nothing like the description. There are no floral notes - it's just one steady "burnt caramel" note with no change. It's not complex at all. There is zero reminder of opulent pre-IFRA powerhouse 80's or 90's perfumes (and I should know because I purchased fragrances back then).

I did wonder if I had been sent the correct samples as there are no tuberose, jasmine or rose notes, and definitely no aldehydes. How can a perfume description be so wildly different to the actual product? I've purchased multiple Rogue fragrances from NOAH and they all match the description on some level.
This is not a blind buy under any circumstances

ignoring my partner on this one

love. opens dark floral and i couldn't parse it. spicy, intense, rich, slightly overwhelming, smells expensive. i had no idea what i was smelling and i liked it anyway, which basically never happens on first sniff with a complicated animalic chypre. the opening isn't even scary, which given the reputation i was braced for. it just sits there being dark and grown up and complicated.
kept reminding me of MEM but darker. heavier. less polite. it has that same lifted jasmine-aldehyde sparkle at the top but then the whole thing sinks into something moodier.
my partner sniffed it and said not really me, a bit medicinal and deep heat. i'm noting this and then ignoring it, because the drydown went somewhere i absolutely recognise.
the drydown is the payoff. half an hour in it's still a strong dark floral but then it shifts completely and becomes fatty, warm, lickable, resinous. not sweet. same register as vanille havane and bengale rouge. the sweet resinous castoreum thing with cold incense running through it. it snuck up on me through an hour of florals i didn't fully understand. a proper chameleon. nothing like the opening.
the batch variation thing is interesting and a little bit worrying for a bottle decision. apparently each small batch of 250 to 300 bottles smells different because the formula is around 80 percent naturals. what i tried may not be what i'd smell next time. i don't hate that, it just means i'd want to sample again from a different batch before committing to a full bottle.

Different every wear

If you love dark 80's powerhouses this is truly your jam. Not something that will be loved by the sweet scent wearing masses. Its got funk and is a mix of dark drama. Think Egiost/with more civet and more dirt. (The new formulation is less enigma than the original 2014, it has lost a bit of its teeth, so the scent profile is not quite accurate anymore)

A masterpiece of perfumery. Complex, challenging, tenacious and long lasting. No two wearings are the same. Simply magical. Not for thet faint of heart.