We begin with 10 to ease one into the Bogue style. 10 is a green floral amber fragrance, which starts and ends as a fig scent, but so much happens over the lifespan of this scent. It’s an approachable eau de toilette that showcases the merit of low concentration, giving scent the space to be full yet able to breathe. It is a slow and gradual scent that unfolds from a central core, revealing new patterns yet always with the defining feature. A kaleidoscope in slow-motion, floral notes morph in a dazzling display. Beaming greens fall on a long and charming complex of florals, resins, woods, and incense.
O/E strikes with its first impression, offering a remarkably familiar masculine accord of citrus-and-woods, that seems much bigger than you remember this accord ever being. Both scents boom post-haste, as sharp citrus and herb notes of lemon, bergamot, and rosemary carve themselves within perfumed space. This fine wavelength fuses with spices, such as clove, cinnamon, black pepper, and juniper berry, which act as the bridge to camphor-inflected woody notes including pine, cedar, and iso-e super touched up with tobacco. A lot happens with this one, but its beauty is sturdy and staid.
With MEM, Gardoni set out to radicalise the lavender genre, which hasn’t been done since Jicky (Guerlain, 1889). And with many others, we believe this has been a success. Lavender is brought to the highest heights, outrageous with its fourfold dose of different lavender species and extracts, which weave together to form a highly nuanced profusion of aromatic profiles. Each and every one is respected within MEM’s frame, as contrasts hang together to form a rare melody. A landscape filled with lavender and seen through a stereoscope. Everything is on display and nothing is missed. MEM’s sparkle up top, its raspy and camphoraceous heart, to its floral base or animalic background - every texture, every facet, indeed every possibility - are all stupefyingly well-delineated in this scent.
MAAI belongs to the same stylistic tradition as MEM, with its bold fronting of floral notes. It is a chypre, and wears this label with a seriousness and a deep respect for its significance. Its heart consists of a potent balm of concentrated floral scent, with lashings of jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, and tuberose that become a forcefield that shine with the stratospheric lift of aldehydes. Underneath this, it is warmed with an animalic accord that saturates and intensifies, placed against a pillar of oakmoss. MAAI is grandeur; a passionate perfume that is the result of great thought and technique.
LiTA demonstrates the sophistication possible of the smoke category; it modulates smoke notes so its allotropic variations can be felt, and you can enter into the thickest parts of LiTA and never feel encumbered, and that is its charm. Smoke unfurls and becomes the burnt, the charred, roasted, boozy-peaty, and even the caramelised. Against this dark background are strewn the white petals of gardenia, champaca, and jasmine - which gain in impact against its black surface. LiTA at first appears black and white until its colours reveal themselves, with warm tones and heat resembling a Fauvist intensity. T-Rex is a Zoologist perfume signed by Gardoni, and performs the equivalent trick of tucking florals in and amongst ribbons and folds of smoke. While LiTA remains a smoulder, T-Rex is a clenched fist in a glove made of smoke, seasoned with fire and capitalising upon spices, especially nutmeg, bay leaf and black pepper. It imagines the meteor crashing into the earth, the extinction event that set flora and fauna ablaze.