When the back of a moisturiser bottle can sound like a foreign language, it can be hard to decipher the good ingredients from the bad. We’ve donned some lab coats and set out to debunk the myths surrounding those ingredients you're adamant you want to avoid, and a couple that you definitely shouldn’t ignore.
Parabens
What Are They?
Parabens are a group of chemicals that act as preservatives to stop products growing bacteria or mould. You'll usually see them listed as butyl-, ethyl-, isobutyl-, methyl- or propyl-paraben. Preservatives will be found in almost all products, from hair pomades to shaving creams.
The Facts
Parabens got a pretty bad reputation after a 2004 research study [P. Darbe 2004] stated that parabens were prevalent in 99% of breast cancer tissue studied. The media panic that ensued led many brands to remove parabens from their ingredient line-up. However, what the study failed to look at was whether non-cancerous cells also contained parabens, therefore proving the research entirely inconclusive. Australia has one of the strictest cosmetic chemical regulatory systems in the world - the TGA - and they state that there is not enough evidence to prove parabens are hazardous in small doses. The majority of products contain as little as 0.01% to 0.3%, whilst it's actually deemed safe in percentages up to 25%.
The Bottom Line
With research still so inconclusive, if you're worried about the effects of parabens then it won't hurt to take the 'better safe than sorry' route - there's plenty of paraben-free options available these days. If you are choosing paraben-free products, be sure to look at what they've been replaced with - some 'natural' brands use synthetic preservatives as an alternative, including Phenoxyethanol, which pose their own health concerns.
Product Recommendation
'Paraben Free' graces bottles and packaging manifold, with many brands committed to doing without. Jaxon Lane's range of products - moisturisers, serums, cleanser are all free from parabens (and even more of the unwanted stuff). Its ingredients are emphatically clean and green.
Their award winning Relax and Repair Moisturiser is award winning, and all of its benefits can be gleaned from its ingredients list - lots of actives at high concentrations, and nothing that even hints at the unnecessary. The result is unbridled confidence - and great skin.
Sulphates
What Are They?
Commonly known as Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES), Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or Ammonium Laureth Sulphate (ALS), sulphates are surfactants that provide you with that thick, foamy lather in shampoo, shave cream, body washes, soaps and toothpaste.
The Facts
Sulfates are known to cause scalp conditions such as dryness or irritation, and can also fade coloured hair and clog pores.
The Bottom Line
If you have coloured hair, dry hair, or your scalp is irritated after washing, then it's a good idea to opt for a sulphate-free shampoo. Many people claim that sulphate-free shampoos don’t work as we have a tendency to believe that it's the lather doing all the hard work, but don't let that put you off — natural shampoos can cleanse just as effectively as their chemical counterparts.
Product Recommendation
Triumph & Disaster Shampoo - T&D's sulphate-free shampoo uses a combination of plant based extracts (Acacia Concinna, Desert Date and Gypsophila Root Extract) to gently foam and naturally cleanse.
Niacinamide
What Is It?
Also known as Vitamin B3 or Nicontinic Acid, Niacinamide is a potent antioxidant with a wealth of benefits for ageing skin or those suffering with acne.
The Facts
Niacinamide will improve skin elasticity, help to erase discolouration and revive skin's healthy tone and texture. Not only good for ageing skin, this anti- inflammatory has also been found to help alleviate red marks caused by acne.
The Bottom Line
A safe but powerful cosmetic ingredient, Niacinamide is suitable for all skin types and will provide outstanding results for both the young and young-at-heart, but particularly those with ageing or acne-prone skin.
Product Recommendation
Jaxon Lane makes good use of this ingredient, and is found across their products. Their Super Serum is all about brightening the skin, and uses Niacinamide as part of this complex of ingredients. Suitable for all skin types, and a range of skin concerns - this serum promotes the best looking skin possible. Niacinamide helps to improve skin tone and texture, brightening dark spots and smoothing fine lines. This works in tandem with tranexamic acid, vitamin C, and centella - and much, much more. Squalane note only boosts hydration, but respects the skin and its natural moisturising factors.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
What Are They?
A group of natural acids, also referred to as fruit acids, that originate from milk and fruit sugars. The two most common AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid, as studies have shown they penetrate the skin best, but you might also see malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
The Facts
The thought of covering your face in acid might sound alarming, but these fruit acids are great for your skin. AHAs work to gently exfoliate and remove dead skin cells from the top layer of your skin. These multi-benefit go-getters are also used to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, improve skin texture and tone, and unblock and cleanse pores.
The Bottom Line
A much gentler alternative to scrubs or cleansing brushes, AHAs are deemed safe to use and good for the skin. Some people have found fruit acids can cause irritation, so if you find that to be the case then switch to a product with a lower percentage of acids, stop using it, or consult a dermatologist. Oily skin should consider products containing Salicylic Acid (a BHA) instead, as it penetrates more easily through oil- clogged pores to deep clean. And don't forget to always use a sunscreen, as AHAs can increase your risk of sunburn.
For more information, check out our deep dive, here.
Product Recommendation
In Anthony's Glycolic Facial Cleanser, glycolic acid is the hero at 4.9%, offering a truly deep clean. This formulation focusses on drawing out impurities and excess sebum build-up, clarifying the skin and restoring it of its healthy glow. For balance, aloe vera and calendula soothes the skin, while vitamins A, C, and E nourish. We recommend this for oily skin types, and/or those seeking to clear the skin of any unsightly spots.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
What Are They?
BHAs will appear as Salicylic Acid towards the middle or bottom of an ingredients list—commonly found in products targeted at treating acne or breakouts.
The Facts
BHAs helps to unclog pores, remove dehydrated or dead skin and calm redness.The acid deep cleans inside the pores as well as the skin’s surface to prevent breakouts from reoccurring. Particularly useful for those with oily or acne-prone skin, it’s also proven to improve skin thickness and collagen production, making it an all-round good guy.
The Bottom Line
Due to its similar molecular structure, anyone allergic to aspirin should steer clear. Those with oily or acne-prone skin will get the most benefit from products containing BHAs, but the exfoliating actions are also good for treating ingrown hairs in all skin types, and anti-inflammatory properties will help to calm sensitive, reddened skin. For best results, BHAs need to be absorbed into the skin so look for it in products that won’t be washed off straight away; such as a toner, moisturiser or exfoliant. As with AHA products, make sure you always apply a sunscreen before leaving the house because your risk of getting burnt increases with the use of BHA products.
Product Recommendation
In MenScience’s Advanced Face Lotion, a combination of effective acids (AHAs/BHAs) at a concentration of <1% work to gently smooth and refine skin texture and tone, without compromising it. Capably used day or night, and ideally combined with a sunscreen if used during the day, this product renews, restores, and nurtures all at once.
Alcohol
What Is It?
Not the stuff you want to be drinking, cosmetic grade alcohol is a diverse ingredients family that will appear under various names, but you’ll most likely find it displayed as ethanol, ethyl alcohol, denatured alcohol (alcohol denat. / SD-Alcohol), ispropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
The Facts
Alcohol is divided into three different categories: Simple, Fatty and Aromatic:
The simple alcohols include Ethyl Alcohol, SD Alcohol and Alcohol Denatured.These can be potentially drying or irritating on the skin, but in the right quantities and combined with a cocktail of other moisturising ingredients, they shouldn't be written off completely. You'll find them in many products, including fragrances and aftershaves. Fatty alcohols include cetyl, stearyl and cetetearyl. They have a waxy consistency and are used as emollients and thickeners. 'Alcohol-free' claims are really saying 'free from ethanol' (the simple alcohols), so there's no need to be alarmed if your so called alcohol-free product contains fatty alcohols in the ingredients listing—they're completely harmless and can actually be moisturising for the skin.
The Bottom Line
Treat cosmetic alcohol as you would an evening tipple—it's fine in moderation, but drink in too much and there could be ill-effects such as dryness or irritation. If you have particularly dry, irritated or sensitive skin then we'd recommend choosing 'Alcohol-Free' products from the get-go. Fans of the classic aftershave lotion should consider following with a balm or moisturiser for an extra boost of moisture.
Product Recommendation
It's hard to beat Proraso's Sensitive Skin Aftershave Balm - alcohol-free and with green tea and oatmeal, it combines the soothing effects of a balsam with the protective and moisturising qualities of a cream.
Mineral Oil
What Is It?
A colourless and odourless oil derived from petroleum that can also appear as liquid petroleum, paraffinum liquidum or white mineral oil.
The Facts
Mineral oil has long been used as a lubricant in engines and other mechanical devices, but that’s vastly different to the refined mineral oils you’ll find in everything from hair pomades to moisturisers. There's been plenty of debate for and against the use of mineral oil in skincare. The 'For' team argue that it's a superb moisturiser and one of the most non-irritating skincare ingredients on the market, while the 'Against' team say that although it may not cause a huge amount of harm, it doesn’t really do a whole lot of good either. Mineral oils don't contain any good nutrients for your skin and they're water repellent, not water soluble. So while the oil seals moisture into your skin, leaving the appearance of being hydrated, it's actually trapping the pores and could prevent good ingredients from getting inside and allowing your skin to breathe.
The Bottom Line
We always like to take the 'prevention over treatment' route, which means loading your skin up with potent, skin-penetrating ingredients that work to provide healthy and balanced skin long term. If you want to use mineral oils, try to do so infrequently so that your skin also gets time to breathe. Anyone with oily skin or conditions such as acne and rosacea should avoid the oil as it could aggravate skin further.
Product Recommendation
Skincare nowadays is highly aware of the no no's around mineral oil, and many products do without mineral oils. The key phrase is non-comedogenic, which won't clog pores. The Daily Rescue Hydrating Emulsion from Lab Series uses jojoba and avocado seed oils to preserve the integrity of the skin's moisture barrier while softening, and smoothing the skin.
