Raise your hand if you’ve ever pondered over the ingredients list at the back of a shampoo bottle in the shower. And that’s just what I did with Baxter of California’s latest Daily Complete Care Shampoo.
It is its own language, all Latin names and chemicals, where even the most common ingredients take on a new name entirely. Tea tree becomes Melaleuca alternifolia, and chamomile becomes Anthemis nobilis. Like any language, proficiency goes a long way - and after a while certain words repeatedly appear - an evident pattern. Many shampoos share a similar composition - and this article reconstructs Baxter's latest shampoo, grouping together ingredients based on their function. With this little bit of knowledge and information, there's a whole lot of understanding possible.
Let's begin with the ingredient list as a whole, noting that the order they appear indicates their prevalence in the product:
Water (Aqua), Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Cocamide DIPA, Polysorbate 20, Glycol Stearate, Fragrance (Parfum), PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-7, Panthenol, Menthol, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus (Lemon Grass) Water, Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzyl Benzoate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citric Acid
Now, let's highlight the ingredients based on the following functions:
- Cleansing
- Conditioning: Hydrating, Moisturising, and Softening
- Soothing
- Nourishing/Rejuvenates
- Functional: Stabilisation, Aroma, Delivery
Water (Aqua), Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Cocamide DIPA, Polysorbate 20, Glycol Stearate, Fragrance (Parfum), PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-7, Panthenol, Menthol, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus (Lemon Grass) Water, Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzyl Benzoate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citric Acid
Look at all those colours! Having coded our ingredients list, what is apparent? The many yellow ingredients at the top of the list indicates that cleansing is the primary function of this product, as we'd expect. Although natural extracts likely host a variety of benefits, I have selected the function that it is most regarded for. Amongst the many cleansing agents, this product also softens, hydrates, soothes, and nourishes the hair - these functions will be discussed in turn.
Water is the most prominent ingredient, as it is in so many products, and functions as a 'carrier' solvent that delivers other ingredients to the skin and hair, imparting their benefits.
Cleansing Ingredients:
A glance of the names themselves reveal a healthy mix of of natural extracts and brilliant chemistry at play. Many of these ingredients can be traced back to natural origins, in which many of these are derivates of coconut.
After water, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate is the most prominent ingredient. It tends to be derived from coconut (fatty acid) and produces a rich and virtually non-irritating foam. This large molecule consists of olefins, excellent detergent agents with good degreasing power - washing out product and build-up with ease. This is attached to a sulfonate compound, which acts analogously to soap. Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Cocamide DIPA, and Polysorbate perform equivalent cleansing and surfactant functions - all of which also derive from coconuts, if the coca prefix didn't already give it away! Their use and prevalence forms part of Baxter's sustainable sourcing practices.
Cymbopogon Schoenanthus (Lemon Grass) Water stuck out to me particularly - I don't see it often in hair products! It boasts incredible cleansing benefits with particular antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, ridding it of dirt and oil build-up, and there are many reports of it strengthening the hair and scalp. It chemically contains a series of terpenes and terpenoids, which stimulate hair growth, in addition to a series of other readily bioactive compounds that offer many benefits amongst the order of cleanliness.
Conditioning Ingredients:
Even shampoos will perform a conditioning function - and as is the case with skincare, hydrated hair more readily absorbs the benefits of other ingredients too. The most prominent conditioners in this product are a powerful quartet consisting of Glycol Stearate, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-7, and Panthenol.
Glycol Stearate appears high on this list - it is an ester that functions as an emollient, which softens the skin and hair. It consists of glycerine and stearic acid, which form a moisture barrier that keeps the hair hydrated and protected.
Both Polyquaternium molecules are synthetic polymers, large molecules that work to condition the hair, improving its texture whilst offering detangling and anti-frizz benefits. It smooths the hair and imparts lustre.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), is a haircare mainstay, and is popular thanks to its hydrating, soothing, moisturising, and thickening properties. It is particularly good for combating dry hair, and improves the appearance of hair marvellously.
Finally, Caprylyl Glycol and Ethylhexylglycerin function as humectants, which locks-in and preserves moisture between each and every wash.
Soothing Ingredients:
Say hello to our natural extracts: complex and rich materials that incidentally contribute to the aroma of the product too. Our hair goes through a lot - stress, environmental aggressors, heat, products - and many ingredients offer soothing benefits that restore the quality and strength of hair. Chamomile (Anthemis Nobilis) Extract is a historically significant haircare product, and is a natural solve-all . It improves the appearance and texture of hair, particularly imparting brightness. It has brilliant antiseptic properties, neutralising and balancing the condition of the scalp.
Juniper Berry (Juniperus Communis) is a potent anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory ingredient, making it particularly effective for dandruff prevention and relief because it soothes the skin, reduces irritation, and minimises flaking.
Willow Bark (Salix Alba) Extract functions by exfoliating the skin - it naturally contains salicylates. It refreshes the skin, soothing and controlling the build-up of oils and flakes.
Nourishing and Rejuvenating Ingredients:
The overlap with the soothing ingredients above are manifest. Menthol is a popular ingredient in many formulations, and notably offers a refreshing sensation - and it is this clean sensation that instils an immediate sense of confidence. Menthol promotes circulation and turnover, opening up the hair follicles to more readily receive beneficial ingredients.
The remaining ingredients here share a camphoraceous quality, boasting similar chemical compositions.
Like chamomile, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract is a historically popular ingredient with proven antibacterial and antimicrobial power, full of polyphenolic compounds and is vitamin-rich. Its benefits - and the biological activities it promotes - are well recorded, its purifying and clean aroma lending to its rejuvenating sensation. It is rich in Pinene and Camphor, amongst other key constituent molecules which balance and protect the hair and scalp. Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) shares a similar chemical makeup and works in much the same way.
There is perhaps no ingredient more popular than Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) in hair products: with thickening, regrowth, and rejuvenating properties well-reported. We've addressed this in the following article, here.
Functional Ingredients:
Here we are in the realm of ingredients that improve the function and broad organoleptic sensation of the product. Other than water, there are two fragrant ingredients in addition to the already aromatic natural extracts: Fragrance (Parfum) and Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone. In particular, the latter ingredient contributes a soft floral aroma, which is synthetically produced albeit naturally found in violets - iona means 'violet' in Greek. These ingredients are generally used to mask certain smells in the composition, ensuring a product that is both effective and aromatically pleasant.
The central preservative in this product is Phenoxyethanol, stabilising its ingredients, ensuring homogeneity, and improving shelf-life by preventing certain activities that may take place in the bottle and spoil it. Most importantly, it is gentle on the skin.
Benzyl Benzoate acts as both a fragrant ingredient and a preservative: it lends a warm, balsamic smell, and inhibits bacterial growth, preventing the product from going bad.
Citric Acid - the stuff found in lemon juice. At the very bottom of the list, citric acid acts as a pH adjuster, which ensures the acid-alkaline balance of a product is just right, ensuring its mildness so to create a non-irritating formula.
Conclusion:
This shampoo lives up to its name: Complete Care Daily Shampoo ranges a wealth of benefits for the hair. It goes beyond the basics with its blend of natural extracts and advanced chemistry - understanding that the best products must utilise the strengths of both types of ingredients to offer an effective and satisfying experience. This study of ingredients has earned it a significant tick, and abides by the principal that everything must have a function - and a good one, too. The product has become my go-to shampoo, along with its matching conditioner, and is now one less thing to worry about ... or read inquisitively in the shower!